Taiwan Tales

Saturday, July 29, 2006

Driving in Taiwan


Now I know i've commented on it before but i felt this topic warranted a post of its own.
It's the one thing that is preventing Taiwan from calling itself a developed country. The route causes of the problem has to be that anyone can drive a scooter without any qualification for driving one (take me for instance) and that car drivers do not learn to drive on the road, but in a concrete yard... tested more on their ability to move the car rather than respond to anything else on the road.
It's a world of contradictions:
  • All adults must wear a helmet when driving scooters... but any helmet will do... and children don't have to wear a helmet at all... be there 1 or 4 clinging to the back of the scooter!
  • Drink driving is closely monitored by the police and people are regularly breathalised.... yet there seems to be no rules against driving reckless driving without alcohol!
  • Everyone must drive on the right... unless you are taking the next left in which case cross to the other side as soon as there's a gap in the traffic; and skirt the side of the road.
  • Unlike in the UK, where car drivers try not to hit anyone, here in Taiwan car drivers are careful not to be hit by anyone... especially scooters; who will win any trial against a car driver and expect to be compensated for their own recklessness.
  • Give way to the right. Not a rule, but scooter drivers do not look before pulling out of a road.
  • Give way to those in front... drivers in Taiwan do not see the need in indicating before stopping or pulling off the road (a bigger problem for cyclists than drivers). In fact the only time you can guarentee a car is not going to move is when he has his indictors on.
  • A red light means stop for cars and check and go for scooters. Something I've often taken advantage of as the lights can take 2minutes to change in some places!
It all seems so stupid when the infrastructure is in place and they can afford the safety measures that no-one has thought, maybe this is a problem that needs fixing.
That said if you take all of these crazy rules into account before taking to the road here; you can have a safe trip.

Sunday, July 23, 2006

Katie's Birthday

This Saturday was a very hot day; unlike last weekend... but in keeping with our new fitness regime; Pascal and I took to the mountains again on our bicylcles... that was a mistake: you've heard the expression 'none go out in the midday sun save mad dogs and Englishmen'... well that summed up the trip... we were only out for little over 2 shours before the humidity beat us... it's forecast to be 42 degree tomorrow! i think i'll stay in doors.
Anyway this evening to celebrate NZ Kate's birthday we all went up to the Culture Club in Changhua. I met the two new Shane teachers back from their Taipei training; Laura and Jenna and a load of other cool people who's names i forget like i do every week at Culture Club.
Birthday Kate dancing the night away
...And your music for the night: Andy and Gareth!
Andy and Rachel in perfect harmony: aww bless em!
This is Stephen and Eleanor, friends of Tai the guy who lives upstairs from my friend Sam (small world isn't it)
Being new to culture club; I felt it my duty to tutor Tai and his friends in the English rules game of pool; a must in every visit to a pub. My tutoring was obviously of the highest standard for he proceded to thrash me in a game of doubles
Let's hear it for Sam and Katie: the first on the dance floor.





Katie (right) with new girl Jenna
The magnificent Stu and Andy: but where were the talent scouts?
The new girls with Sharne: Laura (left) and Jenna (right).






Thursday, July 13, 2006

IT'S A TYPHOON! ..... oh no; my mistake; sorry :)



For the last week Taiwan has been waiting for the typhoon to arrive: every news channel has been broadcasting pictures of predicted paths and guestimates of destruction and chaos.
Well I've gotta say; I'm here on day one of Typhoon Sts Bilis and it's a bit timid.
Come on! Try and make me feel a little edgey. I hardly slept last night looking forward to this; 'it'll be better than christmas!' i thought! Then today I cycled into work.... yes that's right - on a push bike; and home again tonight; waiting to be blown off the face of the earth; but no... I've had more turbulence getting out of bed. After cycling in Britain most of my life; i am yet to be impressed by Taiwanese winds.
At the moment i'm at home and it's raining; it's been raining for some time; but I wouldn't call it a typhoon.
I will keep you posted on this one; it is afterall only day one; who knows... this time tomorrow our house could be at the bottom of the hill.

Well it's now saturday evening...and the drizzle outside is all that is left of the typhoon; although i heard that further north schools were closed... sometimes life just aint fair... mind you it has provided us with a welcome relief of cooler weather.. i'm actually wearing clothes in the house today!

Saturday, July 08, 2006

Tim and Dunx do Hakka country




This weekend the teaching staff (all 5 of us) were invited by the TA's (teaching assistants) on a trip to Sanyi. Always raring to see as much of the world as possible, I jumped at the chance and Tim ... well, Tim had nothing else on. So come Saturday morning we jumped on the back of my scooter to ride into school; however taiwan being taiwan - there was an almighty downfall on the way, and as it was only down the road, i didn't have my visor helmet nor shades; imagine a 30 litre bucket slowly being poured into your eyes! we pulled over for a bit... but we started our trip dripping.
Emma, Rita, Stella and Zoe were the only ones going so we all piled into the school landrover and headed through the drizzle to Sanyi... an aparently 'interesting' place.
The topic for the journey was 'true love' ... that and my hatred (not my words) of a 6 year old in my kindergarten class. We wont reveal his true ID; from here on he will be referred to as Yoyo. All i said was that ASBO trials in the States using radio triggered electric-shocks on youngsters had proved very successful
The TAs at our school are in close networks of friends; therefore getting any juicy gossip was a challenge an a half: still an hours trip; tim gave it his best shot... sad to say nothing worth printing!
We arrived in Sanyi in time for lunch; the sun had come out but it was still pleasantly cool.

The entire town had a whiff of minty pineness... at first i thought it was the trees lining the main road (a rarity in Taiwan) but i soon learnt that the town was famous for sculpting things from a special wood sent from China... the smell was a fragrant preservative used on the finished products. There were some massive pieces costing NT$600,000 that's 10,000 pounds!

We went into a small restaurant for lunch to sample the Hakkanese food... Tim soon learned an important lesson; perhaps the most important thing he'll ever learn in Taiwan; if you're gonna eat chillies - DON'T CHEW. It's the seeds that are hot. For a moment there, I thought we'd lost him...
Towards the end of our meal, a very merry gentleman approached our table. 'Here we go again' I thought thinking back to the near brawl at the Changhua fish restuarant when some drunk Taiwanese gent got jealous of 11 English blokes having lunch with 40-odd young local ladies...
Anyway: turns out this guy was really nice: he was welcoming Tim and me into Taiwan... then he vanished and returned with a large bottle of beer... "Taiwan beer" he says.. "good."
Me an' Tim are nodding and smiling "best beer! very good! yes"
"In the world!" he says, now pouring some into our glasses...
-now at this point I start thinking back to what i'd read in a lonely planet guide... if someone proposes a toast, you cannot serve him drink and it is highly offensive if you dont empty your glass in one.
""Gambe!" says the man; "Gambe" cheer me an Tim; that wasn't to bad i thought; another tai experience survived....
oh no... back he comes with another bottle and some ice; its better with ice- you see. I looked over to his table; he'd already had 9 bottles; so by 3 o clock in the afernoon; the world outside was looking a little more hazy than usual.

Soon after we were driving up the road to the highest railway station in taiwan; the most touristy spot i've seen yet. A winding hillside road of giftshops, cafes and street vendors.
Before long people were throwing food and drink samples at us. One kid; can't have been more than 8 kept on asking us to buy a tray of peanut doughballs: you should have seen his eyebrows... right little businessman; a list of special offers longer than his arm... i suggested taking him back in exchange for Yoyo...the kid was so skilled, i was forced to buy and eat chomp through 40 peanut doughballs on my own!

The station itself was a small plain building. I looked at the many visitors playing on the tracks and it dawned on me that no trains come to this station anymore... which surely takes away its claim to being the highest station in Taiwan... anyways it was a nice spot that wasn't muggy, had little traffic and was yet to be touched by the neon sign that has come to symbolise most of western taiwan.













We stopped in for some coffee and cake at a stupidly expensive - but charming - restaurant. I think i had possily the best tasting custard tart ever today... in fact now i think about it I really did put a lot of food away today: endless peanut doughballs, chocalate icecream, a custard tarte, traditional cake, chicken, fried shrimps, a bowl of rice, grilled veg, a bowl of noodles, and let's not forget my kickstart of porridge, bananas and peanut buttur on toast. But then I have grown to love food even more out here... even the cappacinos had love hearts on them today... fitting in with our true love theme for a day.

A truly lovely day!

Friday, July 07, 2006

Farewell Martin and Kate



As Martin and Kate are leaving Taiwan next week, the staff at Yuan Lin decided to treat him to a meal at a fish restaurant on Friday night as their little farewell effort. Now, after our last fish experience following the opening of a new Shane school in the Changhua area – in which we were served lobster topped with sweet mayonnaise and hundreds and thousands; and crab shells with little to no meat on them with no telling what kinds of other fish parts – I was a little skeptical to say the least… but it turned out to be a fine fishy feast; all nicely presented and requiring no effort by the eater.
I had my first experience of sushi; raw salmon and tuna; which I have to say was gorgeous: not at all chewy like I expected. We were expecting Martin’s replacement, Tim, to join us, but sadly he’d been put on the wrong train in Taipei (the same one I almost came on) and was now on the other side of the island awaiting a 12 hour night train to bring him back to Yuan Lin.

After the meal the staff (did I mention they were all female?) said they were going to a karaoke to sing the night away … now I’d heard some dodgy things about Taiwanese karaoke, but it was Friday night and Linda (the big chief) was insisting, so me, Pascal, Andre, Tanya, Kate and Martin all tagged along to this big karaoke center.



You think karaoke; you think big room, loads of people and one or two people singing at the front! Not in Taiwan; here singing with your mates is like buying a round in England… no tension, no stress and no brilliant singers for that matter… instead of taking your family out for a meal on special occasions; go to the local KTV; or better still buy a portable KTV set: fun for all the family!



We were escorted into a small room with a TV, computer, 3 mikes and long sofa that ran the length of the room. As soon as we got in, a couple of girls started singing along to some Chinese chart topper… Linda demanded that we sing something; I said I needed a drink before hand; the next thing I knew there was a barrel of Heineken on the table.



There was a very limited selection of English songs: but before long, we were all crooning along to Robbie Williams, Aerosmith and Beatles numbers (all with beautiful Chinese videos and erroneous subtitles)
We were there til the early hours of the morning; a good night had buy all.



The plan was to get up early; get to the lake early; and go for a hike before everyone else arrived at lunchtime.
However that plan did not account for Tim getting the wrong train… so 8:30 Saturday morning I wake up after 5 hours sleep wondering where Pascal was… he turned up after 9 with Tim (top bloke by all accounts) and Sharne; by the time Tim had got ready it was close to 10am. It was then that I realized my keys were back at school; so Pascal drove me into town to get them; we got back nearly 11 o clock… thought we might as well wait for the others now; so it’s was looking unlikely that we would be hiking before lunch.





Tim and Sharne jumped in the back of the Pascal wagon with our push bikes, and I followed Martin on my Scooter over the mountains on the - this time significantly less - wet road to Sun Moon Lake. A couple of weeks back I tried to pull off the visor from my tin hat helmet; not realizing that the press-studs were one way, and broke it. So this week I bought a sturdier helmet for longer journeys… imagine Space Balls is it: Darth Vader’s stupidly big hat …anyway my new helmet is like another world; it’s got its own climate; I had the ipod providing beautiful acoustics and my new shades to keep out the sun. I was in the zone!



We stopped off on route to buy some supplies for a BBQ; then it was back on the road.
When we got to the campsite; I’d been on empty for a while, so I followed kate’s advice to follow the road round the lake; there’d be loads of petrols stations on both sides of the road. Well after 20 minutes driving I stopped to check my bearings; I looked across the road and what did I see; Rachel and Andy sat eating lychees in the sun. they gave me directions to a gas station and in return I guided them, Ross and Rea back to the campsite.





The BBQ that evening was delicious; there was much merriment; so much that some people ended up having a midnight bathe in the lake. I was still knackered from the night before so had a relatively early night.











The next morning nature called at 5am; which was annoying, coz its really difficult to get back to sleep over here; the sun was just beginning to peep over the mountain;



I was tempted to go back to sleep; but the Chinese families that had also been camping here were now all awake and some where going cycling; I gave Pascal a shout but didn’t get a positive response.. so I decided to haul my bike out the van and go it alone.
The feeling of exercise without blood, sweat or tears was fantastic, the roads were not too steep and there was a generous cover of foliage: cycle heaven! Every few seconds, I stopped to take a picture of the mist lifting off the hillsides.







Before long I’d reached an impressive temple; looking out over the lake. The dawn light rising in the background beckoned me to capture the moment.



I walked through the temple and there were pictures of the kitchen god, the god of learning and of Confucius. Strangely, on what seemed to be an alter there were carefully arranged: 3 packets of crisps.







On the way back to the campsite I heard – using my Ugandan jungle sense – the sound of monkeys in the trees; I stopped to grab my camera like a proper tourist abroad; and almost got the perfect shot; when a car came round the corner and scared them off; I did manage to get some convincing grey fuzziness on film.

When I got back to the site, it was almost 7am; by which time most were awake and Pascal was ready for his cycle; so I did the whole route again; except where I had managed to avoid any hills; Pascal found a hill to cycle up which nearly killed us; the sun was up now and my arms were starting to burn.



We got back, showered and made breakfast before heading in convoy to the same theme park as last time. This time I was all psyched up for going on the UFO ; but to my genuine disappointment it was closed for repairs… ah well.






For some reason as it started to rain, nobody wanted to join me on the cable car; seconds later there was lightning; and I could see why.

It was a good day all in all, until the heavens opened just as we were about to leave.

The drive back was less pleasant; it seemed that everyone in Western Taiwan had been to the lake that weekend; we had to squeeze through the traffic, inhaling who knows what from the vehicles we past. We thought we had left the worst of the weather behind us, but as we approached Yuan Lin, a huge dark cloud past over and blanketed us in water; not the fine stuff that soaks you right through, but semi-hail; the thin waterproof did little to help my sun burnt arms against the barrage of hail. Within seconds; the mountain road was covered in streams and we were weaving through the debris…. Then, as suddenly as it had started, it stopped and the rock around us was blasted pink by the setting sun on the far horizon… we turned a corner and there was Yuan Lin below us basked in yellow light in stark contrast to everything else. We all had the same thought: stop and take a picture.




We got back to my place and had a nice cup of revival tea. To relax that evening we went to Martin and Kate’s got some pizza and a DVD, before heading to Neil’s bar to catch the end of the Ecuador match. Good end to a great weekend.