Taiwan Tales

Tuesday, March 06, 2007

Lanterns and Fireworks

This Sunday past was the Lantern Festival across Taiwan and in certain towns, events were put on for the public in the same way as the Dragon Boat Festival was held in Lugang. Tom, his girlfriend Sophie, Nick and I were headed south towards Chaiyi to see the biggest event. Nick was confident that we would find our way there and I was confident that everyone else would have the same plan that evening.
We drove through the town and everything looked a little quiet... after asking we were told the main event was 30mins south, so we drove some more. Eventually we arrived at a massive carpark. A park and ride system was in operation and as it was late, we had no problems getting on the bus. Before long we had been deposited within view and earshot of the Lantern Festival.
Festival always makes it sound more cultural, more authentic, but in fact most of the area looked like Hull fair. There were food stands in their hundreds much to my delight (taccos are fantastic). There were huge pedalcarts in the shape of crazy animals on a small field. And there were lanterns... Millions of lanterns. There were traditional ones, themed ones (animals, birds, insects) and massive ones with corporate sponsors.
One such lantern: the Changhua Telecom Pig started to smoke and move as we walked past it... this turned into a lazer light show (which was pretty cool).
The whole time there was Traditional music playing over the mega amps. I got excited at one point because I thought I could see musicians on a stage, but they were just camera crew... then a second later we stumbled upon a whole orchestra playing what can only be described as Chinese Cowboy Music... Yep!
On the opposite side there were two corridors of lanterns that had been made by junior high students for a competition that night... some looked better than the corporate ones.
The whole area left you feeling in a dreamy daze... wave after wave of beautiful lantern lights...
It was about 9 when we left... but the queue to get back onto the bus for the carpark was nearly a mile long and it wasnt moving. Nick suggested walking which made sense except we didn't know where to go.
Then on the main road, we managed to hail an already fully loaded bus... and cram ourselves into the doorway: teacher training in London really paid off: call this a squash-you should try the Underground!
Back at the carpark we popped out again and walked back to the car.
The night was far from over however.
We were on our way to Yanshui Firework Festival!
In the boot we had our helmets, thick coats and hiking boots and a towel.
Why?!
Because in Yanshui they don't fire the fireworks upwards; they go sideways!

It all started many moons ago when the area was ridden with plague, rats and pestilence. In an desperate effort to end the suffering the people looked to the Gods for an answer. The Gods sent fire! And it worked.
So every year since the people of Yanshui - as a vow never to forget their debt to the Gods - have set fireworks lose on each other and given thanks for the blessing of fire.
A little crazy! Yeah! Hence the gear in the trunk.
There was the reassuring trail ambulances leaving the town as we got nearer.
When we arrived, we kitted up and followed the hundreds of people along the main road until we came across a 6 wheeled trailer that had just been pulled across the road. Inside could be seen hundreds of small fireworks aimed outwards like some medieval seige weapon.
Everyone was equally protected, some people were even holding plastic screens and card panels out in front of them. I wrapped the towel round my head and neck before donning my helmet -after hearing a horror story about a guy having his hair singed - then waited; camera in my ungloved hand.
When the noise kicked off, it was hard to see what was happening, the overkeen at the front were talking the main impact, but suddenly red flashes were everywhere on the floor, I could feel my legs taking a pommeling. A few fly past my hand so I made for behind a group with a shield. But these fireworks were like cluster bombs, coming in from all sides... as soon as it had started, it finished... and through the smoke i made for the others. "Again" we were all thinking.

The policeman said the next one wasnt until 1am. It was now 11pm and we didnt believe him so we headed up the high street in the direction of the banging.
After an age, we finally found another one. We came just at the end of it, so we sat down to rest our feet. I was 2 words into a text, when Tom Nick and Sophie dived for cover behind a car. The session was obviously not over yet... and some rogue firework had got through the crowd.
There were a few groups of people carrying a figure of a god up in a box. They seemed to know what was going on more than most, so we followed them through the town, and everytime they stopped it was a good sign to get our helmets on and prepare for incoming.
The biggest launch of fireworks was at the town crossroads, where rockets piled into the sky continuously for almost ten minutes. At the end there was a large cheer and people started making their way home... boom!
At that point some firecrackers that had not been triggered exploded, part hit near my eye but left no scars. It was a sign that the night still wasn't over... it was a cautious trek back to the car, before heading home... for a long nights sleep.

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